Thursday, October 8, 2015

Idyllwild Dress Zipper Pockets Tutorial - Itch to Stitch Birthday Blog Tour and Giveaway

Itch to Stitch*  Pattern Company is having a birthday! We are celebrating with an awesome blog tour and giveaway! (Keep reading for sale and giveway info!)

The company has now been around for one year and has done some impressive things. Kennis, the amazing designer behind the patterns, has ten amazing patterns in her shop already and has more coming soon. I really enjoy sewing these patterns because they are well drafted and well written. Want to see some of the ones I have made? Check out the Idyllwild Dress I previously blogged  here and the Lindy Petal Skirt I blogged here.

The theme for this blog tour is "pattern hacks." All the participating bloggers have chosen an Itch to Stitch pattern to hack. The patterns are all well designed and many are great staple pieces, so there are all kinds of ways to use these patterns to make something unique.

When I heard about the blog tour, I knew I wanted to make the Idyllwild Dress*. I have already made three of these dresses and they comprised a good part of my summer wardrobe. So, naturally, I needed to make one for fall. There are all kinds of ways to change up this pattern, but I eventually decided that what I really wanted was pockets! Who doesn't love a cute dress with pockets?!  So I am sharing with you my tutorial for adding zippered pockets to this dress.


Pockets Tutorial:

Before you start: 
You may want to make sure that the dress fabric you choose can support the zippers. A very thin, drapey, or loosely woven fabric may not be a good choice. I used a ponte that worked well.

Cut out all your dress pieces from your fabric but don't sew them together yet. 

You will need about a quarter yard of fabric for the pockets. (Depending on your cutting layout, you may be able to fit the pieces on the leftover yardage from your dress.)

Materials needed
In addition to all of your cut pattern pieces you will need:
  • Extra fabric for pockets. (See note above, but 1/4 yard should be enough.)
  • Interfacing - I used a lightweight fusible knit interfacing
  • 2 Six-inch zippers - I like the look of metal zippers. You can also shorten the zippers if neccessary. To shorten, sew a bar tack or short zig zag stitch across the zipper teeth where you want the bottom of the zipper to be and cut off the excess below the bar tack. You can use pliers to remove a few of the metal zipper teeth if you have trouble sewing over them or cutting through them. Don't use your good scissors to cut them!
  • Pocket Pattern Piece - See how I drafted mine below.

Drafting your Pocket Pattern Piece:

1. Draw a rectangle 5/8" x 5.75" (1.6cm x 14.6cm) on your paper for the zipper opening. The rectangle should be a few inches from the left side of your paper. 
2. Draw a line 1" (2.5cm) from the left edge of the rectangle.
3. Draw lines 3/4" (2cm) from the top and bottom edge of the rectangle.
4. Using your hand as a guide, mark the right edge of the pattern piece.
5. Draw a smooth curve connecting these lines. You should end up with something that looks like 

Cutting your Pocket Pieces
Cut two sets of mirrored pocket pieces using the pocket piece pattern from your pocket fabric. 
Cut one mirrored set of pocket pieces from your interfacing fabric. 

Sewing Your Pockets Into Your Dress:

1. Decide where you want the pockets to be and mark a rectangle on your pattern piece the same size as the rectangle on your pocket piece. Be sure that your markings are symmetrical. 
2. Iron interfacing onto two of your pocket pieces. They should be two opposite pieces, one for the left side and one right. The interfacing should be on the side that will be outside the pocket facing the dress (I accidentally ironed it on the wrong side, but oh well.) Make sure you transfer the rectangle marking to your Interfaced pocket pieces.
3. Line up your interfaced pocket pieces with your front dress piece right sides together, lining up the rectangles on both pieces. Pin in place and then sew. (In this case, the right side of your pocket piece is the side that will be on the outside of the pocket.)
4. Carefully cut open through the middle of the rectangle on each side, clipping into the corners.
5. Turn the pocket pieces to the inside and press well. 
6. Line up the zipper in the rectangle opening. Pin or baste zipper in place and then topstitch around the zipper to secure. Do this for both zippers. 
7. Pin the matching pocket piece over each pocket and sew around the outside. 

Tip: Once you have sewn the pockets in, you can tack the two pockets together in the seam allowance. This will keep them in place so that they don't flap around when they aren't in use. 

Continue to construct the rest of the dress as normal.

Ready to shop Check out Itch to Stitch*. Use code 20off for 20% off one pattern, 30off for 30% off two patterns, or 40% off three or more patterns.

Don't forget to check out all the other bloggers and enter the giveaway below! 

Itch to Stitch Birthday Fun
(scroll to the bottom to enter to win!)
Follow these blogs to see their awesome creations from Itch to Stitch patterns:
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Itch to Stitch First Anniversary Sponsors
The Fabric Store - $100 Gift certificate
Elliott Berman Textiles - Fabric bundle from France & Italy
Craftsy - three online classes of your choice
Girl Charlee Fabrics - $25 Gift certificate
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UpCraft Club - $25 Gift certificate
Quarto Publishing Group USA - the SHIRTMAKING WORKBOOK by David Page Coffin
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  1. Oh man, it's like you knew I was working on an Idyllwild tee today and have a french terry Idyllwild dress up next on the sewing docket! This is perfect.

    1. Yay! I love the Idyllwild. And I love pockets! I need a french terry one, too.